Travel guide · Northern Patagonia
Ferries, gravel and real travel times, step by step. And everything beyond, all the way to Villa O'Higgins.
The Carretera Austral is one of the world's great road journeys: fjords crossed by ferry, temperate rainforest, glaciers hanging above the road and villages that, forty years ago, could only be reached by sea. This guide covers the whole route, from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins, with a special focus on the northern section and the detour to Futaleufú, home of Uman Lodge. Distances, schedules and road conditions were checked against official sources in October 2026.
The route
The Carretera Austral ("Southern Highway") is the popular name for Chile's Route 7, officially the Camino Longitudinal Austral. It starts in Puerto Montt, in the Los Lagos Region, and ends in Villa O'Higgins, in the Aysén Region, near the Southern Patagonian Ice Field. Until a few decades ago, the villages along it depended on the sea, or on Argentina, to reach the rest of Chile.
How long is it? It depends on how you measure it. In April 2026, Chile's Ministry of Public Works (MOP) put it at about 1,058 km (660 miles) from Puerto Montt to Villa O'Higgins. Historical sources and most guidebooks quote about 1,240 km (770 miles), and some measure 1,247 km from the Manuel Montt lookout to Puerto Bahamondes, 8 km south of Villa O'Higgins. The difference comes down to start and end points, side roads and ferry sections. For planning purposes, think of just over a thousand kilometers of road and three or four water crossings.
How much is paved? According to the same MOP report, 614.5 km are paved (58%) and 443.5 km are still gravel (ripio, in Chile). The 2026–2030 "Ruta Austral" plan aims to pave another 150.4 km. In practice, almost everything between Chaitén and Coyhaique is now asphalt, while gravel dominates south of Villa Cerro Castillo.
Futaleufú is not on Route 7 itself but 76 km (47 miles) east of it, in the valley of the river of the same name. It is the best-known detour on the northern section and the point where the Carretera Austral comes closest to Argentina: the Futaleufú border crossing is only minutes from town.
A young road
Until the 1970s, most of Chilean Patagonia had no road link with the rest of the country. Driving from Puerto Montt to Coyhaique meant crossing into Argentina. In March 1976, final studies were commissioned from the Chilean Army's Military Work Corps and the MOP's Roads Directorate. By August that year the plan had been approved, already including three mandatory sea crossings.
Construction advanced in stages and in extreme conditions. Between 1976 and 1982 some 420 km were opened between Chaitén and Coyhaique. By 1988 another 140 km and three ferries across the fjords had been added. More than 10,000 soldiers worked on the project. The road opened to traffic in 1988, reached Puerto Yungay in 1996 and Villa O'Higgins in 2000. The branch to Caleta Tortel was completed in 2003.
It is one of the most ambitious public works of 20th-century Chile, and it is still unfinished: paving continues, and an extension toward Magallanes is under study. During the dictatorship, maps and signs used the name "Carretera Longitudinal Austral Presidente Pinochet", but no official document ever backed it. Its official name is Route 7.
Gateways
There are four practical ways to start. Which one suits you depends on your time and on whether you want to drive the whole road or just part of it.
Before you fly in: check visa requirements for your nationality. On arrival, Chile's immigration police (PDI) give you an entry slip: keep it for the whole trip. Foreign tourists paying in US dollars need it to be exempt from Chile's 19% VAT at hotels such as Uman Lodge. Car rental companies ask for your national license, and many recommend an International Driving Permit.
By road and ferry
This is the route most travelers look for, and the most beautiful in the north. It adds up to about 320 km (200 miles) of road plus two ferry crossings: the short one at Caleta La Arena and the bimodal route between Hornopirén and Caleta Gonzalo. Allow a full day, 12 to 14 hours with waiting times, or better still two days, overnighting in Hornopirén or Chaitén.
Route 7 along the Reloncaví Sound to the first ferry ramp.
Runs 24 hours a day, no booking, first come, first served. Expect queues in summer, on weekends and on public holidays.
To the port of the bimodal route. From Puerto Montt it is about 106 km of road, roughly 2 hours, plus the crossing.
Two linked ferries through the Comau and Reñihue fjords, with 10 km of gravel between Leptepu and Fiordo Largo, sold as a single fare. With a vehicle, booking is mandatory.
Through Pumalín Douglas Tompkins National Park, among alerce trees, waterfalls and the Chaitén volcano.
Past El Amarillo and along Lake Yelcho.
Leave Route 7 heading east on Route 235-CH to Puerto Ramírez, then Route 231-CH up the Futaleufú valley. Paving is advancing in stages.
Distance from Puerto Montt to Futaleufú: about 320 km of road via the Carretera Austral, including the 10 km of gravel inside the bimodal route, plus the ferry crossings. Via Argentina it is about 680 km, with no ferries but two border posts.
Can you drive it in a day? Yes, if you catch the 10:00 ferry from Hornopirén: leave Puerto Montt before 7:00 and you reach Futaleufú by sunset. On the 18:00 sailing you land at Caleta Gonzalo after dark, and the sensible move is to overnight in Chaitén. The gravel through Pumalín is not a road to drive in a hurry or at night.
The last stretch to Uman. The lodge sits on Fundo La Confluencia, a few minutes from town. The access road is gravel with steep sections: a 4x4 or pickup is ideal, and in a regular car you should drive up with care.
Other ways in
If the Hornopirén ferry is full, or you would rather not drive, there are alternatives.
Overnight ferry
9 h
Naviera Austral sails from Angelmó, stopping at Ayacara. As of October 2026 it departs at 23:00 Tuesday to Saturday and at 12:00 on Mondays. You sleep on board and reach Chaitén in the morning, with your car.
Light aircraft
~45 min
Pewen and Aerocord fly from Puerto Montt's La Paloma airfield (not El Tepual) to Santa Bárbara airfield near Chaitén. Aerocord also runs charters to the Futaleufú airfield, 3 km from the lodge.
Bus
1–2 days
Kemel Bus covers Puerto Montt–Chaitén via the bimodal route, with a connection to Futaleufú. Buses between Chaitén and Futaleufú take about 3 hours.
From Chiloé, Naviera Austral sails Castro–Chaitén (about 6 hours, currently Sundays only) and Quellón–Chaitén (about 6.5 hours, January to March only). When the bimodal route is full, another option is Pichicolo–Ayacara–Caleta Gonzalo, run by Transportes Puelche, which does not operate daily.
Private transfers. Uman Lodge arranges transfers from the Futaleufú airfield, Chaitén or Esquel. They are not included in the rate and must be requested at least 48 hours in advance.
By water
On the Carretera Austral you plan around sailings, not the other way round. This table summarizes the crossings you will meet from north to south, using operators' information as of October 2026.
| Crossing | Operator | Duration | Booking |
|---|---|---|---|
| Caleta La Arena – Caleta Puelche | Transportes del Estuario | 30–45 min | No. 24 hours, first come, first served |
| Hornopirén – Caleta Gonzalo (bimodal) | Somarco | ~4.5 h including the land stretch | Yes, mandatory with a vehicle (barcazas.cl) |
| Puerto Montt – Chaitén | Naviera Austral | ~9 h | Yes, recommended |
| Castro or Quellón – Chaitén | Naviera Austral | 6–6.5 h | Yes. Limited, seasonal sailings |
| Puerto Ibáñez – Chile Chico | Naviera Austral | ~2 h | Yes, in summer |
| Puerto Yungay – Río Bravo | Free service | ~50 min | No, first come, first served |
How the bimodal route works. From Hornopirén you sail about 3.5 hours (34 nautical miles) to Leptepu, drive 10 km of gravel to Fiordo Largo and cross in 40–45 minutes to Caleta Gonzalo. There are currently two subsidized sailings a day in each direction: 10:00 and 18:00 from Hornopirén, and 12:30 and 20:00 from Caleta Gonzalo. An extra commercial sailing is added in January. The last departure from Caleta Gonzalo may change with the tide.
Reference fares, Puerto Montt–Chaitén ferry (Naviera Austral, commercial fare for foreigners, one way, October 2026): from CLP 43,300 per passenger and from CLP 210,000 per car. The subsidized Tuesday, Thursday and Friday sailings are cheaper.
Booking tips:
The eastern gateway
For many travelers, the best gateway to the northern Carretera Austral is not in Chile. Aerolíneas Argentinas flies direct from Buenos Aires (Aeroparque) to Esquel in about 2.5 hours. From the airport to Uman Lodge it is 98 km (61 miles), through Trevelin and the Río Futaleufú international pass. It is the shortest route to the lodge, it does not depend on ferries, and you can be in the valley by lunchtime.
The road. Esquel to Trevelin is paved. From Trevelin, Argentina's Route 259 continues toward the Andes; between Los Cipreses and the border it is gravel, and in September 2026 the national roads agency was grading it, with a 60 km/h speed limit. On the Chilean side, Futaleufú town is about 10 km from the border.
The border post. The El Límite–Futaleufú complex is open 08:00–19:00 for private cars and buses. Hours can change in winter or in emergencies: check the day before at pasosfronterizos.gov.cl.
What to bring:
Bariloche is also connected to Esquel by road, via Route 40 and El Bolsón. Combining Bariloche, Esquel, Futaleufú and the northern Carretera Austral makes one of the most complete two-country loops in Patagonia.
The whole route
From Villa Santa Lucía, Route 7 continues south through some of the most untouched landscapes in South America. Use these section distances and road surfaces as a planning reference.
| Section | Distance | Surface | Approx. time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Puerto Montt – Hornopirén | 106 km | Paved + La Arena ferry | 2 h + crossing |
| Caleta Gonzalo – Chaitén | 56 km | Gravel | 1.5 h |
| Chaitén – Villa Santa Lucía | 75 km | Paved | 1.5 h |
| Villa Santa Lucía – Futaleufú (detour) | 76 km | ~20% paved | 1 h 40 |
| Villa Santa Lucía – La Junta | 69 km | Paved | 1 h 20 |
| La Junta – Puyuhuapi | 45 km | Paved | 55 min |
| Puyuhuapi – Coyhaique | 233 km | ~90% paved | 4 h 40 |
| Coyhaique – Villa Cerro Castillo | 96 km | Paved | 2 h |
| Villa Cerro Castillo – Puerto Río Tranquilo | 123 km | Mostly gravel | 2 h 50 |
| Puerto Río Tranquilo – Cochrane | 115 km | Gravel | 3 h |
| Cochrane – Caleta Tortel | 126 km | Gravel | 3 h 20 |
| Cochrane – Villa O'Higgins | 231 km | Gravel + Yungay–Río Bravo ferry | 6 h + crossing |
Times without stops, at 38–50 km/h (24–31 mph). On gravel, in rain or with roadworks, add 20–30%.
Current conditions. The north is almost entirely paved between Chaitén and Coyhaique, with some gravel and roadworks. From Villa Cerro Castillo south, gravel is the rule, and there is active work between Confluencia and Puente Chacabuco near Cochrane. For daily closures, landslides and detours, check the MOP Roads Directorate notices before each stage.
Worth the detour
Created in 2018, it covers some 402,000 hectares, most of them donated by Tompkins Conservation. Between Caleta Gonzalo and Chaitén, the road runs through ancient alerce forests with short, well-marked trails. The best known climbs to the crater rim of the Chaitén volcano: 4.4 km round trip, about 2.5 hours, moderately hard. There is a direct link with Uman: Fundo La Confluencia, where the lodge stands, was bought from Douglas Tompkins in 2007.
The town the volcano buried in ash in 2008, and which rebuilt itself. Today it is the northern logistics hub, with ferries, an airfield, fuel, a bank and shops. Its waterfront on the Gulf of Corcovado has some of the widest views on the route.
About 25 km south of Chaitén, a short gravel turnoff leads to the El Amarillo hot springs, fed by water from the Michinmahuida volcano at around 50 °C. Further on, the road skirts Lake Yelcho, vast and blue, where the Futaleufú River ends its run.
The town sits about 10 km from the border, ringed by mountains and two turquoise rivers. Kayakers and rafters know the river worldwide for its clear water and class IV–V rapids: read our guide to rafting the Futaleufú. The valley is also great for fly fishing, horseback riding, hiking and mountain biking.
Puyuhuapi was founded in 1935 by German settlers from the Sudetenland, at the head of a fjord. Six km south, on the same road, are the Termas Ventisquero hot springs, with outdoor pools facing the water. About 20 km south of Puyuhuapi lies the Ventisquero sector of Queulat National Park: the trail to the Hanging Glacier lookout is 3.3 km round trip, 2–3 hours, and ends in front of a glacier spilling over a rock wall.
Aysén's capital and the only real city on the route. The place to rest, refuel and get cash before heading south.
The basalt spires of Cerro Castillo tower over the Ibáñez valley. The trail to the Laguna Cerro Castillo lookout starts 4 km from the village: 13 km round trip, about 7 hours and 1,122 m of elevation gain, with entry only between 08:00 and 12:00. Check the park's entry requirements before you go.
South America's second-largest lake, shared with Argentina. Boats leave Puerto Río Tranquilo for the Marble Caves (Capillas de Mármol), a nature sanctuary of water-carved caverns. The classic trip takes about 1.5 hours, and the lake is calmest early in the morning.
A village with no streets for cars, a protected heritage zone linked by kilometers of cypress boardwalks between forest and water, near the mouth of the Baker River. You leave the car at the parking area at the entrance.
The end of the road, reached after the free Puerto Yungay–Río Bravo ferry. Between November and March you can continue to El Chaltén, Argentina, by boat and on foot or by bike via Lago del Desierto: a crossing for travelers without a car.
Hot water
It is one of the most common searches in the area, so let's be clear: there are no natural hot springs in Futaleufú town. The closest along the route are:
If what you want is hot water after a day on the river, Uman Lodge's spa has a heated indoor pool with windows onto the mountains, an outdoor hot tub facing the valley, a dry sauna, a hammam and a massage room. It is not a natural hot spring, but it is the most comfortable way to end a day of rafting or riding.
Season
The travel season runs from November to April. Outside it, ferries run less often, many services close and frost makes gravel harder.
| Period | What it's like | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| November – mid-December | Spring: high rivers, forest in bloom, long days and fewer people. Cooler and changeable | Travelers seeking quiet and good rates |
| Late December – February | High summer: warmest and longest days. Peak season, with full ferries and lodgings | Families, and anyone with bookings made |
| March | Often more stable weather, less wind, first autumn colors | The best balance for many travelers |
| April | Deep autumn and few visitors. Shorter days, some services already closed | Photographers and flexible travelers |
It rains in every month, especially in the northern fjords (Hornopirén, Chaitén, Puyuhuapi). The south, toward Cochrane, is drier but windier. Uman Lodge is open from 7 November 2026 to 31 March 2027.
Before you go
On gravel you average 40–50 km/h (25–30 mph), and app travel times almost always fall short. Plan to arrive before dark: tight bends, narrow stretches, little signage and animals on the road.
You don't need a 4x4 for Route 7, but you do want high clearance, good suspension and a sound spare tire (ideally two for the far south). For the drive up to Uman, a 4x4 or pickup is best. Slow down when passing other vehicles: flying stones crack windshields.
Most rental companies in Puerto Montt and Balmaceda charge an extra fee to drop the car in another city, and it can be high. Compare a round trip with a one-way drive plus a flight. Also check that the contract allows gravel roads and ferries.
There are Copec stations in Chaitén, Futaleufú and La Junta, plus Coyhaique and Cochrane further south. Supply in Puyuhuapi is limited. The rule is simple: fill up whenever you can. For the far south, between Cochrane and Villa O'Higgins, carry a jerrycan.
There are BancoEstado branches in Chaitén and Futaleufú, but ATMs can run dry in high season. Small shops, campsites, boats and some ferries do not always take cards. Uman is the opposite: payment is by card only, and cash is not accepted.
There are long stretches without mobile coverage between towns. Download offline maps, share your itinerary with someone and don't rely on your phone's GPS in the south.
If you plan to combine the trip with Argentina, ask for the exit authorization when you book the car. Without it, you cannot cross at Futaleufú. Check what the insurance covers on gravel, on ferries and in the other country.
7, 10 and 14 days
Three ways to travel the road, all within Uman's season (November to March) and with Futaleufú as a base or a stop. They are paced comfortably: you can shorten them, but we don't recommend squeezing the ferry days.
Via Argentina: fly to Esquel, cross to Futaleufú in a morning and stay 5 nights at Uman, with a full-day outing to Lake Yelcho and El Amarillo Hot Springs.
Days 1–9 as in the 10-day itinerary. Then:
With more time: add 4–5 days for Cochrane, Caleta Tortel and Villa O'Higgins, and return the same way or cross to Argentina via Chile Chico.
How to travel
By car is the most flexible option and the one most travelers choose. You can stop at every viewpoint, but you need to plan ferries, fuel and distances. A 4x4 pickup makes everything easier, especially in the south and on side roads.
By bike, the Carretera Austral is a world-class touring classic. It is demanding: long gravel stretches, wind, rain and climbs such as the Queulat pass. Ferries carry bikes at their own fare. If you'd like a taste of gravel without panniers, Uman has mountain bikes and e-bikes for exploring the valley roads.
On a tour or package, you hand over the logistics: transfers, ferries, guides and lodging. In Futaleufú, Uman's Full Experience program includes lodging, all meals and one excursion per person per day, so the most active part of your trip needs no planning.
By bus or motorbike is possible too. Buses are slow and depend on ferry times; motorbikes call for a dual-sport model and experience on loose gravel.
Lodging
Options range from campsites and family guesthouses to cabins and a handful of lodges. In the towns along the way (Hornopirén, Chaitén, La Junta, Puyuhuapi, Coyhaique, Puerto Río Tranquilo) one night is usually enough; in January and February, book early, as small towns fill up fast.
In Futaleufú, Uman Lodge. It stands on a cliff above the confluence of the Espolón and Futaleufú rivers, on a 490-hectare estate with an organic garden, livestock and a private river beach. It has 16 suites with mountain views, a restaurant using produce from its own farm, a wine cellar, a bar and a spa. It is the natural place for a multi-night stay on the northern section, where the road trip turns into river, fishing, horses and mountains.
Common questions
According to Chile's Ministry of Public Works, about 1,058 km (660 miles) between Puerto Montt and Villa O'Higgins, 58% of it paved (April 2026). Many guidebooks and historical sources quote 1,240 km, because they include side roads and measure from other points.
It starts in Puerto Montt, in the Los Lagos Region, and ends at Villa O'Higgins (Puerto Bahamondes), in the Aysén Region, on Lake O'Higgins. Beyond that you can only continue to Argentina by boat and on foot or by bike.
Route 7, or Camino Longitudinal Austral. The name "Presidente Pinochet" appeared on signs and maps during the dictatorship, but it was never official.
Not exactly. Futaleufú is 76 km off Route 7: the turnoff is at Villa Santa Lucía, heading east on Routes 235-CH and 231-CH toward the Argentine border.
About 320 km (200 miles) of road via the Carretera Austral, plus two ferry crossings: Caleta La Arena–Caleta Puelche and the Hornopirén–Caleta Gonzalo bimodal route. Via Argentina, with no ferries, it is about 680 km.
A full day: 12 to 14 hours with ferries and waiting times, if you take the 10:00 bimodal sailing. It is more comfortable over two days, overnighting in Hornopirén or Chaitén.
Fly Santiago–Puerto Montt (El Tepual) and transfer to La Paloma airfield, where Pewen and Aerocord fly to Chaitén. Aerocord also offers charters to the Futaleufú airfield, 3 km from Uman Lodge. From Argentina, fly Buenos Aires–Esquel, 98 km from the lodge.
Not the Caleta La Arena–Caleta Puelche crossing, which runs 24 hours on a first-come, first-served basis. The Hornopirén–Caleta Gonzalo bimodal route requires booking with a vehicle, and the Puerto Montt–Chaitén ferry is worth booking, especially in January and February.
Not for Route 7, but you do want high clearance and good suspension. On gravel, a reasonable speed is 40–50 km/h. The access road to Uman Lodge is steep gravel: a 4x4 is recommended there, and in a regular car you should drive with care.
Yes, and it is the shortest route to the lodge. From Esquel, drive through Trevelin on Route 259 to the Futaleufú Pass, open 08:00–19:00. If the car is rented, you need the rental company's authorization to cross.
Not in town. The closest are El Amarillo Hot Springs, about 120 km away near Chaitén, and Termas Ventisquero at Puyuhuapi. At Uman Lodge, the spa has a heated pool, an outdoor hot tub, a sauna and a hammam.
November to April. January and February have the longest days but also the most people and the fullest ferries. November and March usually offer the best balance of weather, quiet and availability.
At the end of the detour
Uman Lodge sits above the confluence of the Espolón and Futaleufú rivers, a few minutes from town. After a day of gravel and ferries, it is the place to stay several nights before heading south to La Junta, Puyuhuapi and Queulat, or crossing into Argentina. Send us your dates and we'll help you plan the northern section.
